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Learn tips for creating your most beautiful home and garden ever. Marie Iannotti is a life-long gardener and a veteran Master Gardener with nearly three decades of experience. She’s also an author of three gardening books, a plant photographer, public speaker, and a former Cornell Cooperative Extension Horticulture Educator. Marie’s garden writing has been featured in newspapers and magazines nationwide and she has been interviewed for Martha Stewart Radio, National Public Radio, and numerous articles.

As with any perennial crop, starting with a weed-free site will save you a lot of time and effort down the line. Once the weeds are gone, spread a 2 – 3-inch layer of compost on the bed. You can work it into the top layer of soil, but it’s not necessary. There are 4 basic types of strawberries. June bearing, day neutral, everbearing and the tiny, but delicious, alpine strawberries.

If you want to preserve strawberries, June bearing produces the largest crop at one time. If you want to enjoy your strawberries for a longer stretch than just June, choose day-neutral or everbearing. Day-neutral berries produce a small crop throughout the season. 2 – 3 harvests per season, which are a little smaller in yield than what you would get from June bearing strawberries. Ideally, plant some of both June bearing and day neutral, and you’ll have the best of both worlds. Ask your local cooperative extension or a good nursery which, if any, are prevalent in your area and choose resistant strawberry varieties. If you do learn that your area is prone to a particular disease, make sure you rotate where you plant your strawberries, when you are starting a new bed.

Avoid re-planting in the same spot, or the spores will build up in the soil. Each plant should yield somewhere from 1 cup to 1 pint per season. Keep in mind that June bearers will produce this during 1 month and the other types will spread it out over the growing season. It’s essential that the crown is planted slightly above the soil line.